Nestled in the heart of the vibrant city of Lucknow, the Bara Imambara stands as a magnificent testament to the rich cultural heritage and architectural brilliance of the region. This sprawling complex, also known as the Asafi Imambara, is an architectural marvel that beckons visitors from around the world. Join me on a virtual journey as I recount my unforgettable visit to the Bada Imambara and delve into the history, grandeur, and hidden gems that await those who venture inside.
A Glimpse into History
Imambara Asaf-ud-Daula was built during 1784-91 CE under the royal patronage of Nawab Asaf-ud-Daula (1775-97) and designed by chief architect Kifayatullah. This grandest complex, locally known as Bara Imambara, contains the graves of Nawab Asaf-ud-Daula, his wife Shamsunnisa Begum and the chief architect Kifayatullah. It was constructed as a part of a relief project during the devastating famine of 1784, providing employment to thousands of people. The Imambara complex includes not only the main Imambara but also several other structures such as the Bhool Bhulaiya (Labyrinth), Shahi Baoli (Royal Stepwell), and the Asafi Mosque.
It is believed that over 20,000 men were employed to construct the monument. While the common men worked all day to build the structure, the noblemen and elite class would visit the site at night and demolish whatever was built during the day. This was done to extend the duration of the construction work and keep the common men and nobles employed during the ongoing famine. The famine lasted for 11 years and so did the construction of the beautiful monument, Bara Imambara.
The Majestic Architecture
The entrance opens onto a vast courtyard ending at a triple-arched gateway, which further leads to the main courtyard wherein lies the great Imambara. The exterior façade of the Imambara is monumental in scale and affords views of the city of Lucknow from multiple levels. Notice the fishes facing each other engraved on the squinches of the gateways, part of the royal insignia of the Awadhi nawabs.
As I approached the Bara Imambara, I was awestruck by its sheer size and intricate architectural details. The main building, adorned with exquisite Islamic motifs, is a blend of Persian, Mughal, and Awadhi architectural styles. The plan of the monument comprises Naubat Khana on the north, Asifi mosque on the west, Shahi Baoli on the east, while the main building stands on the rear south. The main building of Imambara is a three-storeyed building constructed on a raised platform. There are seven arched openings in the facade and three halls made with different concepts.
The main hall without any pillars measuring 49.71 x 16.6 meters with a maximum height of 14.95 meters flanked by Chinese hall on the right and Persian hall on the left. The grand central hall, known as the Bara Hall, is one of the largest arched rooms in the world without any external support. The hall boasts an impressive ceiling, which is believed to be constructed using the technique of interlocking bricks without the use of any beams or girders. Constructed of Lakhauri bricks laid in lime mortar, the monument is exquisitely decorated with stucco work and adorned with parapets and chattris. The interior is ornamented with precious chandeliers, tazias, alams etc. The Imambara complex was built for the religious majlis and Muharram rituals as well as a relief measure for public during the terrible famine of 1784.
The trick that keeps the ceiling from crashing in on visitors is also the Imambara’s most intriguing architectural feature, the bhool bhulaiya, a labyrinthine network of nearly a thousand interconnected passageways built directly above the chambers, thus reducing the weight of the ceiling by making it hollow.
Neither a mosque nor a mausoleum, an Imambara is a unique edifice used by Shia Muslims for the purpose of religious gatherings during the month of Muharram. Muharram marks the festival of ritualized mourning for the third imam and Muhammad’s grandson Hussain who was martyred in the Battle of Karbala in 680 AD. Unmatched in its architectural opulence, the Bara Imambara, also known as the Asafi Imambara after its founder, comes alive during the festival of Muharram as believers assemble and take out tazias, or movable shrines. Its walls painted in a soothing combination of pistachio green and white and crystal chandeliers hanging from the ceiling, the main hall houses the tombs of the nawab and his talented architect from Delhi, Kifayat-ullah, their graves lying adjacent to each other.
The Enigmatic Bhool Bhulaiya
One of the highlights of my visit was exploring the legendary bhool bhulaiya, a labyrinth of more than a thousand interconnected passages, staircases, and corridors. The name “Bhool Bhulaiya” translates to “maze” in Hindi, and it certainly lives up to its name. As I navigated through the narrow passages, I couldn’t help but feel a sense of mystery and adventure. The maze is designed in such a way that even the most experienced wanderer can easily get disoriented, adding to its allure. The labyrinth with intricate balconies and passages with 489 identical doorways is special attraction.
The intricate network of pathways can easily bewilder even the most seasoned explorers. The design of the maze is such that one can often hear whispers from distant corners, adding to the mystique and intrigue. The whispering gallery is an acoustic marvel allows even the softest whispers to be heard from one end of the gallery to the other, despite the maze-like structure. The construction of the Bhool Bhulaiya was intended to confuse intruders and protect the Imambara from potential attacks.
The Bhool Bhulaiya is designed with small windows and ventilation shafts, which provide a continuous flow of air throughout the maze. This ingenious ventilation system keeps the interior cool and refreshing, even during the hottest days. The Bhool Bhulaiya stands as a testimony to the opulence and grandeur of the Awadh region’s rich cultural heritage. It is recommended to hire a local guide who can expertly guide you through the maze, unraveling its secrets and sharing intriguing stories associated with the structure.
The Bara Imambara is said to have hidden passages and secret entrances, some of which may have been used as escape routes or for strategic purposes during times of attack or siege. These concealed pathways added an element of surprise and made it difficult for adversaries to infiltrate the complex.
The Serene Shahi Baoli
Adjacent to the Bada Imambara, the Shahi Baoli is a stepwell that was constructed to provide water during the scorching summers. Shahi Baoli is approached through a arched gateway. Descending the stone steps, I found myself in a tranquil oasis of calmness. As one descends the steps, a sense of tranquility envelops the surroundings. The steps lead you to the water reservoir or Baoli. The Shahi Baoli offers respite from the scorching heat of Lucknow’s summers, with its lower levels providing a cool and soothing environment. The interplay of light and shadow creates a mesmerizing ambiance, perfect for relaxation and contemplation.
There is a multi chambered palace in the interior, built around the stepped well that kept the building cool. A major part of the palace used to be submerged into the water. The water source of the Baoli was well connected with the Gomti River. However, the recent urbanization has disrupted the connection between Baoli and river. The symmetrical arches, intricate carvings, and the play of light and shadow created a picturesque scene. The stepwell also served as a meeting point for the city’s intellectuals and artists, fostering a vibrant cultural exchange.
The unique feature of Shahi Baoli Stepwell is the alignment of one window of the building and entrance pathway which lets the visitors to experience a secret view. The visitors can see their colorful shadows standing at the entrance of the building on the water of the well. It is said that the water channels in the stepwell were connected with the River Gomti which is currently around a kilometer and half away from the place (the distance would have been lesser when the structure was being constructed; the distance increased due to the natural shifting of the course by the river).
One of the most popular and fascinating feature arises out of the intelligent amalgamation of architectural style with ancient geometrical concepts. One of the windows is aligned in such a way with the main entrance that the visitor can see the reflection of the visitors at the entrance in the water of the well.
The self-styled guides would tell you many stories including the Stepwell being haunted and the stepwell being the location where the Nawab buried his treasure (during the period of revolution) and the British army was not able to find it. It is said that the treasurer of the Nawab was one Mr. Moolchand Rastogi who knew the secret of the treasure and where it was hidden; he had the key and the map which he apparently threw in the stepwell and no one was able to find it. He also apparently suicide and remained loyal to his master, not allowing the greedy British army to find the treasure. So some would tell you that it’s the ghost of the treasurer which haunts the place.
Today, visitors can explore the Shahi Baoli and experience its architectural beauty firsthand. The sound of dripping water, the play of light on the walls, and the calmness of the surroundings make it a unique and enchanting destination within the Bara Imambara complex. It is a testament to the architectural splendor and engineering prowess of the Nawabi era.
The Asafi Mosque
Within the Bara Imambara complex, the Asafi Mosque stands as a testament to the religious harmony and architectural finesse of the era. The mosque, named after Nawab Asaf-ud-Daula, features stunning minarets, domes, and intricate calligraphy. As I stepped into the mosque, I was struck by the peaceful ambiance that enveloped the space, inviting visitors to pause and reflect.
My visit to the Bara Imambara in Lucknow was an awe-inspiring experience that left an indelible mark on my soul. The grandeur of its architecture, the enchantment of the Bhool Bhulaiya, the serenity of the Shahi Baoli, and the spirituality of the Asafi Mosque all combined to create a truly remarkable journey. If you ever find yourself in Lucknow, don’t miss the opportunity to immerse yourself in the rich history and architectural splendor of the Bara Imambara. It is an encounter that will transport you to a bygone era and leave you with memories to cherish for a lifetime.
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